When discussing legendary luxury brands, many people immediately think of Cartier. The mere mention of the name evokes images of the dazzling lights of Hollywood, the highest Parisian fashion, and the jewels of royalty.
Cartier has earned its place among the world’s most renowned and respected luxury brands. It achieved this status by skillfully navigating historical trends, earning the favor of royal courts and the elite, and boldly embracing the prevailing styles of each era.
Cartier is nearly synonymous with luxury beyond ordinary mortality and breathtaking innovation, both in the world of jewelry and timepieces.
Cartier’s position as a top luxury brand in the world required generations of expertise and the ability to navigate the upheavals of history. It also required some luck—being in the right place at the right time. However, Cartier has successfully carried its brand legacy through industrialization, two world wars, and a constantly changing world into the present day.
Cartier’s significance in the history of jewelry and watchmaking is so profound that it is difficult to fully grasp. The name Cartier can be linked to both Napoleon and Marilyn Monroe. Its clientele has included kings and maharajas from long-fallen monarchies, and for nearly 180 years, Cartier has been a driving force in modern cultural history.
Cartier’s waves of influence in history have extended across fashion, art, and design, making it impossible to fully understand the brand’s impact without examining its past. So, we must go back to a time when craftsmanship alone could make a person a legend.
Revolutions and the wealth of industrialization
France in the 19th century was an era of turmoil—uprisings and revolutions followed one another, and industrialization was reshaping Europe. Cartier’s journey began in 1847, when Louis-François Cartier purchased the watch and goldsmith workshop of his former master, Adolphe Picard, in Paris.
The timing was fortuitous. While industrialization had progressed rapidly in other parts of Europe, France had lagged due to ongoing political unrest. However, around the mid-1800s, France’s economy took off, bringing newfound prosperity—something Cartier was well-positioned to benefit from.
By 1853, Cartier had moved his boutique closer to the royal palace, where aristocrats frequented. Just two weeks after opening, a piece of Cartier jewelry adorned the Empress Eugénie, wife of Emperor Napoleon III, who had been crowned the year before after another revolution.
The empress fell in love with Cartier’s craftsmanship and became a regular customer. The nobility, eager to emulate her style, quickly followed, cementing Louis-François Cartier’s reputation.
Even after Napoleon III’s fall and the establishment of the Third Republic, Cartier’s success endured. In 1874, Alfred Cartier, Louis-François’s son, took over and expanded the business further. His goal was to establish Cartier as an internationally recognized brand, and his three sons—Louis, Pierre, and Jacques—transformed Cartier into a global luxury house.

Louis took over the Paris store, relocating it in 1899 to Rue de la Paix, near Place Vendôme, which remains a pilgrimage site for high-end watchmaking and fine jewelry. Cartier still operates at 13 Rue de la Paix, a location considered the heart of Cartier.
Pierre Cartier studied in St. Petersburg under Carl Fabergé, networking with Russian aristocracy before opening a London boutique in 1902. His younger brother Jacques took over the London store in 1909 when Pierre moved to New York to expand into the American market.
In London, King Edward VII (son of Queen Victoria) appointed Cartier as the royal jeweler for his coronation. This earned Cartier the legendary slogan: “Joaillier des Rois, Roi des Joailliers” – “Jeweler to Kings, King of Jewelers.”
World wars and avant-garde innovation
Cartier’s success has always been rooted in its fearless embrace of world cultures and forward-thinking designs.
Among the brothers, Louis Cartier, who led the Paris boutique, was a true design visionary. In 1903, Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont complained about the inconvenience of pocket watches during flight. In response, Louis Cartier designed the Cartier Santos, the first purpose-built pilot wristwatch, which remains an iconic model today.

In 1911, Jacques Cartier visited India for King George V’s coronation as Emperor of India. Inspired by maharaja jewelry, Cartier created a jewelry style later known as “Tutti Frutti”, featuring floral and leaf-shaped carved emeralds, sapphires, and rubies set in platinum.

Louis Cartier also revolutionized diamond cutting in 1912, modernizing the “Dos d’âne” cut into what is now known as the baguette cut, which became a Cartier trademark.
The same year, Louis Cartier shocked the luxury world with the “Mystery Clock”, where hands appeared to float in mid-air. Each clock was a one-of-a-kind masterpiece, adorned with gemstones, cloisonné enamel, and guilloché patterns.

During World War I, Louis Cartier was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank and designed the Cartier Tank, a wristwatch durable enough for trench warfare. The Tank became another luxury icon, worn by figures from Andy Warhol to Michelle Obama.

After the war, the 1920s were a golden era for Cartier, with booming economies in France, England, and the US fueling demand for luxury. Cartier mastered the Art Deco movement, drawing inspiration from Egyptian, Indian, and Persian influences.
Cartier also pioneered platinum jewelry, developing an iridium-alloyed platinum with an exceptional shimmer. The hardness of platinum allowed for ultra-light yet intricate designs.
However, World War II halted platinum jewelry production, as the metal was designated for military use. Cartier’s Paris store remained open throughout Nazi occupation, subtly resisting by releasing a “Caged Bird” brooch, symbolizing France’s captivity. After the war, the design was modified to show an open cage.
Modern Cartier and beyond
After the war, Cartier’s creative direction was led by Jeanne Toussaint, who introduced the Panthère de Cartier design, inspired by a panther she saw on safari. The Duke of Windsor commissioned a 116.74-carat emerald Panthère brooch, which became a Cartier signature.


In 1964, following the death of Pierre Cartier, the company left family hands. The brand was later reunified in the 1970s under new ownership and became part of the Richemont Group in 2012.
Today, Cartier operates 200 boutiques in 125 countries. It continues to innovate, drawing from its rich history while shaping the future of luxury.
Cartier’s timeless design philosophy
Cartier blends traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, creating iconic jewelry collections such as:
- Trinity (1924) – Symbolizing loyalty, love, and friendship
- Love Bracelet (1969) – A bold, industrial-style symbol of eternal love
- Panthère de Cartier – Inspired by Jeanne Toussaint’s safari vision

With nearly 180 years of history, Cartier remains a pioneer of luxury, proving that quality and craftsmanship will always reign supreme.