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The BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT represents a stylish Italian Dolce Vita life attitude and high-quality watchmaking.

BVLGARI (or Bulgari) is one of the most prestigious luxury brands in the world, combined especially with jewelry, perfumes and accessories. In addition to these, Bulgari is an innovator in the world of watches, whose watches combine technical design with technical pioneering spirit. Bulgari’s know-how is especially evident in the form of the thinnest wristwatches on the market, thanks to the extra-thin in-house movements.

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

Before I go into the technical pioneering nature I have mentioned, it is important to examine the stylistic issues that are important and characteristic of Bulgari. Octo Finissimo is in many ways Bulgari’s flagship collection, combining iconic octagonal design with ingenious details.

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

A good foretaste of this can be seen in the cheaper Octo Roma collection, from which the Finissimo collection takes the design of the watch case a couple of steps more complex and at the same time more design-inspired. However, the design is not suppressed by gimmicks, but the angular design is done with finely finished bevels and polishings, which makes Finissimo look more octagonal than Roma. The most significant difference in design is found in the lugs, which in Finissimo are two-sided, which at the same time makes the case sculptural.

When the watch is beautiful timepiece of art

The first reaction when looking at the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is a spontaneous sigh about how balanced it is. After this, attention is drawn to the beautiful blue dial, from which the silver sub-dials and indices stand out harmoniously.

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

The silver-gray sub-dials on the dial are elegantly executed and although they are relatively close together, the dial does not feel busy. At nine o’clock there is a small second, at six o’clock a 30-minute counter, and at three o’clock a clearly executed dual time, with an evening-time portion executed with a dark blue background color. This helps to visualize what time of day it is.

An expression of the Italian lifestyle

Wristing a watch is an experience in itself for such an Italian style and dress that has lost its heart, as it seamlessly combines a certain amount of confident arrogance – albeit quite restrainedly. The Bulgari’s background in jewelry is stylistically evident in a satin-polished steel bracelet, which is aptly striking and especially comfortable.

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT steel bracelet.

All in all, the Bulgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT represents Italian light elegance at its best. After all, the Italian style of dress is known for its lightweight structures and materials that feel like another skin. In these respects, this watch moves in the same sandbox and the emotional bond towards the sign is formed as if by itself.

The triumph of technology

The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT relies on Bulgari’s own BVL318 movement, which is the smallest on the market. This ultra-thin automatic chronograph mechanism gives the watch 55 hours power reserve and, as I mentioned earlier, has allowed the watch to be designed to be very thin. In fact, it is the world’s thinnest chronograph with a 24-hour dual time function in addition to a chronograph.

Separately, I want to praise the silky softness of the watch’s crown and chronograph pushers. There’s no slack in the crown, so setting the time exactly is a pleasure. The same feeling of ease continues when tuning the movement, as well as when using the chronograph pushers. Everything happens exactly without pinching. So you can feel the quality at your fingertips.

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

The BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, despite its thinness and design, is larger in size, so it is at its best on a slightly thicker (17 cm) wrist. With the whole thing in mind, the owner of the world’s thinnest GMT chronograph gets a watch on his wrist that stands out as both a horological masterpiece and a complementary accessory to wear.

Read more at BVLGARI website.

In a nutshell

  • Manufacturer: BVLGARI
  • Collection: Octo Finissimo
  • Model: Chronograph GMT (ref. 103467)
  • Movement: BVL318 in-house automatic
  • Operating frequency: 28,800
  • Power reserve: 55 hours
  • Watch case: stainless steel
  • Case diameter: 43 mm
  • Watch thickness: 8.75 mm
  • Glass: sapphire
  • Case back: sapphire
  • Water resistance: 100 m (10 ATM)
  • Bracelet: steel
  • Bracelet width: integrated
  • Price: € 17,000

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is a noble of dress watches

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is an elegant collection of dress watches that complements the style-conscious wardrobe.

Almost every serious watch brand has its own interpretation of the dress watch, which is especially appealing to business users. Dress watches can be found in all price ranges and materials, but if you are looking for real elegance on your wrist, many swear by precious metals.

Other definitions that can be combined with dress watches are also restrained in terms of size as well as thickness (or in this case thinness), the simplest possible dial, and a high-quality leather strap. If you’re just looking for the best, check out Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

One of the benefits of the Patrimony collection is availability. Where the manufacturer’s sporty Overseas collection is mostly sell out by retailers, Patrimony offers the golden opportunity to get caught up in Vacheron Contantin usually right away if a model that teases your own taste buds just happens to be on the shelf.

Another strength of Patrimony lies in the versatility of the collection, with watches available for men and women, with a wide range of complications (from the simplest hour and minute pointers to the perpetual and minute repeater) and in a variety of sizes from 36 millimeters to 42.5 millimeters.

If you are looking for a charming gold watch for business to red carpet use, the Patrimony duo below is the perfect pair for a gentleman and a lady.

In addition to mechanical in-house movements (manual and automatic) and sapphire crystals, all Patrimony models are combined with precious metal cases in either red gold, yellow gold, white gold or platinum. With the exception of one all-gold model, the collection relies on straps made of an alligator with a suitably soft wrist feel.

Our choices

From the versatile Patrimony collection, I highlight two 1950s vintage-inspired models that are both 40mm in size in proportion to a man’s wrist. Of these, the light-colored automatic model (ref. 85180 / 000R-9248) packed in 18-carat red gold case with a date display is the choice for those looking for a classic dress watch. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a more discreet dress watch in a restrained way, I would look at the 18-carat red-gold case and blue dial manual model (ref. 81180 / 000R-B518).

Both models are also thin as dress watches, as the light-colored watch is 8.55 millimeters thick and the blue-colored watch is only 6.79 millimeters thick. Both models are waterproof up to 30 meters and the power reserve is reported to be 40 hours.

Vacheron Constantin, part of the Richemont Group, also comes with a piece of relatively rare watch history, as the manufacturer is one of six awarded the Geneva Seal of High Quality and Reliability by the City of Canton and the Canton of Geneva.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is a noble dress watch.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is a noble dress watch.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

But most of all, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is the choice of a style-conscious and high-quality watch user who is suitable to go to all tables and events.

The prices

Patrimony collection starts from 20,500 euros. Blue dialed ref. 81180 / 000R-B518 cost 20,500 € and light-colored ref. 85180 / 000R-9248 cost 29,600 euros.

The watches were given a test and photography loan by Osk. Lindroos Helsinki (Finland). Thank you for your cooperation.

James Bond’s titanium style on the wrist – Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

James Bond has relied on Omega watches since 1995, with the latest No Time To Die movie showing the titanium Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition.

Omega’s story as a Bond watch brand began in the era of Pierce Brosnan, when Lindy Hemming, who was involved in the costume for 007 and the Golden Eye movie, wanted a watch on Bond’s wrist that matched the style and value of the Navy commander. At that time, the navy blue diver’s watch Omega Seamaster 300M Quartz Professional was selected as James Bond’s new watch, which has seen a total of ten different Omega on the wrist of the 007 for the eras of Brosnan and Daniel Craig.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Commander’s Watch” Limited Edition
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Commander’s Watch” Limited Edition

In addition to the Bond watches featured in the movies, Omega has released several Bond watch models aimed at fans, the most popular of which are the so-called Commander’s Watch.

In the 007 saga, Brosnan’s Omega had latent functionalities, while in Daniel Craig’s first three Bonds (Casino Royale, Quantum of Solace and Skyfall), the watches were purely timepieces in keeping with the new realistic Bond theme. In the last two films (Spectre and No Time To Die), the Q Branch finally got to tune into the watches with the rather explosive extras required to save the world.

Appearing in the movie No Time To Die, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is the tenth Bond wristwatch, with a titanium mesh bracelet model seen on James Bond’s wrist and a new nato strap model on the new 007’s wrist.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

The latest Bond watch is based on the popular Seamaster Diver 300M collection, with a base size of 42 millimeters suitable for most. On my own wrist, the current Diver 300M range hasn’t been the best fit, but the 007 Edition, packed in a lightweight Grade 2 titanium case and slightly thinner than the normal model, changes that. This watch fits on my wrist wonderfully, as the watch does not actually have a center of gravity, but fits naturally on the wrist. The same feeling is repeated on both bracelets.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition - titanium bracelet Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition - nato strap

From here, I get to the 007 Edition bracelets, which are available in two different types. My personal favorite is the titanium mesh bracelet, which has pin buckle holes like normal two-piece straps with the difference that the end of the bracelet goes below the bracelet on the other side of the folding clasp. The solution works well on my 17 centimeter wrist, where depending on the feel, the buckle goes into either the last or second last hole. Another alternative to the watch is a stylish nato strap that matches the dark brown tone of the watch.

The color scheme of the watch is vintage-spirited. The brushed gray titanium case is accompanied by a dark brown dial and an aluminum dial. The indexes and pointers on the dial, as well as the markings on the dial, are snow-massed in a vintage-brown tint. The style is complemented by convex sapphire crystal, which, unlike the rest of the Seamaster Diver 300M collection, is only protected on the inside.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition exudes a understated vintage feel.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition exudes a understated vintage feel.

This little detail is a thoughtful draw with a desire to emphasize the vintage spirit of the watch. On the other hand, this detail reflects the nature of the work of the 007, which acts as a watch user, in which saving the world would unnecessarily cause scratches on the reflective coating on the surface of the glass. It is therefore appropriate to omit it at this point.

The 007 Edition is powered by the METAS-rated Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8806, which is the same as the 8800 most commonly used in the main collection, except for date function. The movement is excellent for Bond’s purposes, as it has strong protection against magnetic forces – up to exactly 15,000 gauss. The movement offers 55 hours power reserve with a daily accuracy of 0 / + 5 seconds, so Bond is not late because of the watch, even after a weekend-long break.

Is the 007 Edition worth the price?

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is an excellent wristwatch and fan watch with a price tag of 9,400 euros on the titanium bracelet and 8,300 euros on the nato strap. The price difference for the Diver 300M steel case and bracelet (5,300 €) is significant, which is partly explained by the titanium used in the case and the bracelet, but equally by the Bond stamp.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition leather case.

I myself approach the matter to some extent as a Bond fan, where the valuation point is not only the collection and emotional value, but also the comparison of the watch with similar watch models made of titanium from other valuable watch manufacturers. Using this apparent rationale, the 007 Edition is a pretty good choice, as there is arguably no competition. And yet, the Bond watch is perhaps the most coveted / well-known watch, and therefore even in some way reasonable (for oneself) justifiable, for which one is willing to pay extra for two brands.

But whatever to deny it, this watch is bought with emotion. 🙂

In a nutshell

  • Manufacturer: Omega
  • Collection: Seamaster Diver 300M
  • Model: 007 Edition (ref. /
  • Movement: Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 (automatic)
  • Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 A / h)
  • Power reserve: 55 hours
  • Case: titanium
  • Case diameter: 42 mm
  • Watch thickness: 13.15 mm
  • Glass: sapphire (reflective on the inside)
  • Case back: titanium
  • Water resistance: 300 m (30 ATM)
  • Bracelet: titanium or nato strap
  • Price: 9400 € (titanium), 8300 € (nato strap)

The watches were given a test and photography loan by Osk. Lindroos Helsinki (Finland). Thank you for your cooperation.

The Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver

The Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver combines the timeless design of the Finnish Leijona watch brand with Swiss independent watchmaking expertise.

Försti Diver is the fourth fruit of Perkko Ltd’s Leijona Heritage 1907 watch collection and Voutilainen x Leijona Heritage’s collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, alongside Oiva Classic, Jalo Sport and Urho Chrono.

Unique cooperation with Kari Voutilainen

The Voutilainen x Leijona Heritage collection is the result of a unique collaboration in which the Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and his team have given a strong imprint, especially on the production of watches. The technical design of the watches takes place in Voutilainen’s workshop and the various stages of the production process take place in production plants specializing in small-scale production owned by Kari Voutilainen.

Kari Voutilainen is involved in the Voutilainen x Leijona project.
Kari Voutilainen is heartly involved in the Voutilainen x Leijona project.

For example, the dials come from Comblemine and the cases are manufactured and finished at the Voutilainen & Cattini factory. Similarly, the watches are assembled and tested at Voutilainen & Cattini’s another production plant. What makes it interesting is that Voutilainen’s own watch production relies on exactly the same facilities and professionals.

Försti Diver watchmaker.

The most significant parts purchased from the outside are automatic movements manufactured by the Swiss Sellita, as well as steel bracelets by the Swiss family company Rhein Fils, and rubber straps by the Hong Kong based Crafter Blue.

Jari Mantila and Kari Voutilainen discuss the design and implementation process of Försti Diver.
Jari Mantila and Kari Voutilainen discuss the design and implementation process of Försti Diver.

Försti Diver is also the first diver’s watch that Kari Voutilainen and his workshop have made from start to finish – based on the plans of Perkko and especially Jari Mantila, known as the driving force of the Leijona Heritage 1907 collection. A funny detail about the project is that Kari Voutilainen’s first Leijona watch was also a diver’s watch, so Försti Diver can be seen as a kind of return to the roots and the closure of the circle.

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver

The Voutilainen x Leijona collaborative collection, part of the Leijona Heritage 1907 collection, relies on strong Swiss independent watchmaking production with Kari Voutilainen, where the amount of work and finishing – especially the case and dial – as well as the watch production methods and materials used have not been compromised. The end result is a high-quality product that lasts time and use by Swiss standards.

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver is a full-blooded diver’s watch, the design of which is based on a quartz-powered diver’s watch model taken from the history of Leijona. Based on the selected model, Kari Voutilainen’s studio carried out structural design as 3D modeling, in which the design was honed in terms of mechanical machinery and the best possible usability and durability, without, however, interfering with the dimensions.

On the desk of Kari Voutilainen’s studio designer is Försti Diver with an original model. Do you notice the differences?

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver

The end result is a modern and exemplary interpretation of the diver’s watch that is perfect for today’s consumer in everyday use. Kari Voutilainen said that one of the starting points of the design is that the watch case must be able to re-work like new without changing the dimensions and appearance, if necessary. This has required frictionless communication between the designers and the case factory, so that, for example, the various finished surfaces and facets on the watch case can be easily re-finished from scratches or small bumps.

Why Sellita?

The watches in the Leijona Heritage 1907 collection rely on the movements of the Swiss manufacturer Sellita. Originally a subcontractor to the ETA, Sellita is one of the largest players in the industry, whose movements are used by numerous quality watch manufacturers.

Just like in the ETA, Sellita offers different versions of its movements of which Leijona Heritage relies on the Special (Elabore) quality level, which promises a range of ± 7 to 20 seconds per day. During the production process of the Leijona Heritage collection, the movements are inspected and tested three different times.

Försti Diver is subjected to pressure testing to ensure that the watch is waterproof for 200 meters.

There are two reasons for choosing Sellita: Firstly, the availability of the movement is guaranteed, so spare parts are easily available. The prevalence of the movement means that there are many watchmakers and watch services capable of servicing it. Therefore, the consumer’s experience in possible service situations, especially in terms of speed and reliability of service, can be considered good. This is something that should not be forgotten as an everyday watch user in the era of the inhouse movement boom.

Aesthetically functional

Another, more significant reason is the Leijona Heritage collection’s in many ways a “Japanese-inspired” philosophical approach to watches as aesthetic everyday objects, where you want to pay more attention to what everyone can see with their own eyes. In this world of thinking, the design language of the watch case and dial, the level of finishing and the materials used are emphasized.

Voutilainen & Cattin SA case factory professional at work.

The watch cases in the Leijona Heritage collection are finished by hand by experienced professionals.
The watch cases in the Leijona Heritage collection are finished by hand by experienced professionals.

Försti Diver’s design solutions emphasize the importance of aesthetics in a functional way. Even if you look at the dial, the elevated and strongly luminescented indices give it a beautiful three-dimensional impression – plus the dial is extremely easy to read in all conditions. When looking at indexes and hands with a loupe, they are finished to a high standard.

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver dial.

At the bottom of it all, there is an exceptionally high-quality galvanized dial in this price point. As a method, electroplating produces a velvety glowing surface that requires flawlessness in the material and surface finish to achieve an aesthetically pleasing finish. If there is even the slightest defect in the material, it will show up mercilessly in the end result – which is unforgivable in a visible part like a dial.

Fit in glory

For the watch case, the most important issue related to usability is the fit. In this respect, Försti Diver has succeeded well in achieving a good fit on both the smaller and larger wrists. The main reasons for this are the moderate 41mm diameter of the watch case, which feels and looks a little smaller in size on the wrist.

Försti Diver fitting.

The fit is affected by a moderate thickness of 12.75 millimeters, some of which is brought about by the still slightly raised anti-reflective sapphire glass. The height is identical to the original model, but due to the better fit, the back cover of the watch is correspondingly lower than Sapphire glass, which means that the watch is a little closer to the wrist.

Försti Diver rubber strap

Various handmade finishes can be seen on the watch case.
Various handmade finishes can be seen on the watch case.

In order to maximize the fit, the rubber strap made by Crafter Blue is strongly curved downwards, leaving no empty space between the wrist and the watch. At the same time, the watch naturally settles slightly in the middle of the wrist, depending on the shape of the wrist, and not uncomfortably on the inside or outside of the wrist.

The steel bracelet of the watch fits almost as well, and I would miss a little more roundness for comfort at the edges against the wrist. The plus is that the steel bracelet has a small possibility of fine adjustment. The detailed design is indicated by the fact that the steel bracelet and rubber strap are designed exclusively for the Försti Diver watch model.

Leijona Heritage steel bracelet.

Försti Diver steel bracelet.

Those who change their straps will be pleased to know that Försti Diver’s lug width is standard 20 millimeters, so there are plenty of suitable accessory straps on the market if the steel bracelet and rubber strap that comes with the watch is not enough for your own needs.

Two models, eight looks

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver is available in the first phase in two different colored models, which are delivered with two different colored bezels and a steel and rubber bracelet. In this way, four options with different looks can be modified from one model.

The light-colored model (ref. 21.400.01.521) is made in a limited edition of 50 pieces and comes with a two-color blue bell ring and a one-color dark blue bezel. The black model (ref. 21.400.01.220) is a series production model and comes with a so-called Coke (black-red) and black bezel.

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver back case.

Price and availability

Voutilainen x Leijona Försti Diver is available in Finland through retailers and internationally from the Heritage Leijona online store. The price of both watch models is 4,490 euros.


Introduced by the Leijona watch brand more than two years ago, the Leijona Heritage collection is a very ambitious project that aims to restore Leijona to the roots of Swiss watchmaking. The goal has been reached in terms of manufacturing, but in the end, success is measured by commercial metrics.

What is respectable about the project is that, according to the original plan, Leijona has not embarked on the path of quick profits with its Heritage 1907 collection, but has dared to build a credible position of quality and price in the eyes of consumers. The challenge is not easy, but achieving the goal does not depend on the quality of the watches.

Leijona Heritage Försti Diver

Försti Diver is a step in the right direction, as the Leijona Heritage collection has needed a diver’s watch to increase interest in the international market as well. Against this background, the collaboration model with Kari Voutilainen, which includes a huge amount of handicrafts and high-quality Swiss watchmaking, is a wristwatch worth the price.

In a nutshell

  • Manufacturer: Leijona (Perkko Ltd)
  • Collection: Leijona Heritage 1907
  • Model: Försti Diver (ref. 21.400.01.521 / 21.400.01.220)
  • Movement: Sellita SW200-1 (automatic)
  • Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 A / h)
  • Power reserve: 38 hours
  • Watch case: stainless steel
  • Case diameter: 41 mm
  • Watch thickness: 12.75 mm
  • Glass: sapphire (anti-reflective)
  • Caseback: stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 200 m (20 ATM)
  • Bracelet: steel and rubber
  • Price: 4490 €

The ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition

The novelty celebrates the ORIENT’s 70th anniversary of the Japanese watch brand as a manufacturer of mechanical watches.

Since 1950, the Japanese ORIENT has been manufacturing mechanical watches known for their good value for money. In addition to competitive pricing, I consider the manufacturer’s strength to be a versatile and extensive collection (ORIENT and ORIENT STAR), where you can find interesting alternatives for different situations. A great thing for watch lovers is the good availability of watches through the world.

In recent years, ORIENT has introduced models based on a rich history to this day in modernized versions. One of these models is the limited edition model of 2,500 by the manufacturer celebrating its 70th anniversary, which simply bears the name ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition.

The ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition

The specs of the anniversary model are in line with ORIENT’s renewed diver’s watch collection. This means a 43.4-millimeter-sized steel case, a four-o’clock screw down crown, a screw down caseback, Sapphire crystal and 200-meter water resistance. The bezel is, of course, only counterwise. There is a slight tolerance around the bezel, so there is a slightly chance that it can remain between two clicks.

What sets the anniversary model apart (positively) from the normal collection is the look for which heritage spirituality has been sought quite successfully. First, attention is drawn to the personalized, gradient-colored dial described by the manufacturer as “Jaguar Focus”. The name comes from a watch model of the same name and popularity published by the manufacturer in the 1970s, which is much the same color like a real jaguar.

The ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is an impressive diver's watch.
The ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is an impressive diver’s watch.

The dial is comfortable and easy to look, as it has large elevated indexes with shiny gold edges and fair-sized luminance in the middle. The same color scheme with luminance is also repeated on the hour, minute, and second hands, with a red effect color that brings a small twist to the top of the latter.

The case is made of stainless steel with a beautiful brown folding coating. This brings a warmer and deeper shade to the steel. What I particularly like about the design of the watch case is the alliance of shine and matte; the sides of the case and lugs as well as the bevels surrounding the case are polished, while the areas on top of the case and lugs have a matte polishing.

The case has shiny and matte surfaces. I give a little stylish minus to the look of the crown, which is polished steel without the shade coating on the watch case.
The case has shiny and matte surfaces. I give a little stylish minus to the look of the crown, which is polished steel without the shade coating on the watch case.

This gives the watch a small edge, as when viewed from the side the watch looks shiny on the wrist, but when viewed from above it looks more subdued. This subdued essence is accentuated by a matte counterclockwise bezel that allows the dial with its sapphire crystal to come into its own.

The ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition relies on its own Cal.F6722 movement with a speed of 3 Hz. At a lower beat frequency, the movement has a 40-hour power reserve, which is in line with the competitors in this price class. As a small note, I could mention that the rotor is easily moved when I rotated the watch a few times in my hands. The rotor is therefore sensitive – which is good.

The crown goes well with its threads. In terms of feel, there is a small gap for setting the time for the minute hand and you have to be careful with the positioning. Then, when the pointer is in place, pressing the crown down with a fairer grip does not swing the pointer from its set position.

The watch has a thin leather strap. The buckle is the same shade as the matte shade of the watch case.
The watch has a thin leather strap. The buckle is the same shade as the matte shade of the watch case.

The watch comes with a brown leather nato strap. Used leather is not the softest of all, but it does matter. The leather of the strap is reasonably thin, which has minimized the increase in watch height on the wrist caused by the strap construction. Replacing the two-piece strap makes the watch feel a degree smaller on the wrist, so those with a smaller wrist should consider that. This is facilitated by a standard 22mm lug width.


ORIENT is still quite unknown as a watch brand in Finland, for which the best medicine is interesting and attractively priced watches. In the ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition watch, these aspects meet in a good way, even though the watch represents the more expensive end of the manufacturer’s range.

The watch is delivered in a blue special package and its recommended price is 745 euros.

The Orient 70th Anniversary is also suitable for casual business casual wear.

The ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition


In a nutshell

  • Manufacturer: Orient Watch Company
  • Model: ORIENT 70th Anniversary Limited Edition
  • Reference: RA-AC0K05G
  • Movement: Cal.F6722 (inhouse automatic)
  • Frequency: 21,600 (3 Hz)
  • Power reserve: 40 hours
  • Case: stainless steel
  • Width without crown: 43,4mm
  • Glass: Sapphire crystal
  • Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
  • Lug width: 22mm
  • Strap: leather nato strap
  • Guarantee: 2 vuotta
  • Price: 745 €

The Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer – a sporty novelty

The Swiss microwatch brand Brellum has introduced a stylish pilot watch collection called PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer.

The new range presented now is a continuation of Brellum’s previous limited edition Power Gauge LE.1 Chronometer, which was manufactured as a black-speaking DLC-coated model, as well as a steel case with black dial model.

To top it all off, Brellum, founded by Sébastien Muller, is one of the most successful micro brands of recent years, and its ambitious approach to making Swiss-made chronographs that are attractive in price and predominantly chronometers has also proven to be a world-renowned concept. What puts Brellum at the forefront of micro brands this time again is the high level of finishing on the watches.

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

The Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer collection consists of three chronographs with different dials, with a choice of leather or steel bracelet. The color options of the dials are black, blue and silver. Indices and indicators are satin-polished and rhodium-plated. The hour, minute, and small hands, as well as the 3/6/9/12 indexes, feature a glowing SuperLuminova coating.

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

The eye rests on the numerous details of the dial, from which the engraved small dials and elevated indexes provide a suitable stylistic and readability-enhancing contrast. This is especially noticeable in the silver dial model, which is clearer than you would expect. At this point, the anti-reflective treated boxed sapphire crystal is like a dot on top of i.

The movement used in the novelty is, as is familiar to Brellum, the COSC chronometer-certified Valjoux, the finish of which with Perlage patterns, Gevene stripes and blue screws is eye candy that can be admired through the sapphire caseback. The power reserve provided by the machine is 46 hours without timing and you can see the current reserve on the indicator.

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

The watch is packed in 41.8mm steel case that fit well on my 17 centimeter narrow wrist. In my own experience, the fit with the steel bracelet is slightly better than the leather strap. Brellum’s integrated steel bracelet is a pleasant acquaintance anyway, as it is a sturdy act. The steel bracelet has a folding clasp, which is unlocked with buttons on both sides.

A choice for those who like sports watches

The Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer is a sure choice for the wrist of a watch wearer who appreciates a sporty lifestyle. The most relaxed combination is obtained by combining a leather bracelet with a black model, while those seeking a more trendy alternative choose a blue model with a steel or leather bracelet on the wrist. The whiteboard model exudes the 1980s in a good way, with a steel bracelet that fits like a white Ferrari Testarossa for Sonny Crockett.

The price of the Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer with delivery costs is CHF 2,990 for a steel bracelet and CHF 2,890 for a leather bracelet.

Brellum PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer

In a nutshell

  • Manufacturer: Brellum
  • Model: PILOT Power Gauge Chronometer
  • Movement: BRELLUM BR-750-PR (COSC) , based on Valjoux 7750
  • RPM: 28,800
  • Power Reserve: 46 hours
  • Watch case: stainless steel
  • Diameter without crown: 41,8 mm
  • Thickness: 15,9 mm
  • Glass: sapphire (anti-reflective coating)
  • Water resistance: 50 m (5 bar)
  • Lug width: 22 mm
  • Wristband: stainless steel or leather
  • Price: CHF 2,990 (steel bracelet), CHF 2,890 (leather strap)

Baselworld has been canceled for this year – a new date is Jan. 28 – Feb 2, 2021


The world’s largest watch fair, Baselworld, has been canceled. The reason is the coronavirus epidemic, which has resulted in the Swiss government banning the gathering of more than 1,000 people until March 15. The cancellation of Baselworld came a day after another major event in the industry, Watches & Wonders Geneva, announced its cancellation.

The fair organization informs that Baselworld will be held January 28 – February 2, 2021.

The difficult years in the watch industry have taken an unexpected turn this year as the coronavirus, which originated in China’s Wuhan, has spread around the world, fearing several major events have been canceled. Major cancellations have included, in addition to Baselworld and Watches & Wonders, the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Summit in Tokyo, the Geneva and Beijing Auto Exhibitions, the Mobile World Congress in Barcelona, and the Chinese F1 grand prix.

From the Baselworld press release:

For health safety reasons and in accordance with the precautionary principle following the bans of large-scale public and private events issued today by the Swiss federal and cantonal authorities, Baselworld organization announces that it has taken the decision to postpone the show to Thursday 28th January 2021 to Tuesday 2nd February 2021 due to concerns related to coronavirus.

Baselworld, which was to be held from April 30th to May 5th this year, has taken this difficult decision in close consultation with its partners and the health authorities in charge, in whom Baselworld has full confidence for their expertise and recommendations for the benefit of exhibitors, visitors and collaborators.

Following today’s official ban on large public gatherings which meant direct repercussions for the show, Baselworld had no other option than to make a decision as all preparations, in particular, construction in the halls and of the stands was scheduled to commence next week (start March).

Michel Loris-Melikoff, Managing Director of Baselworld said:

“We deeply regret having had to postpone the event as planned due to the coronavirus, in full consideration of the needs of the watch and jewellery industry to be able to benefit from the platform to develop their business. This decision has been all the more difficult in view of all the positives that have been achieved through listening and dialogue over the last few months, which resulted in new concepts and new solutions, that have attracted exhibitors to return and new ones to sign on. We registered encouraging growth in all sectors; watchmaking, jewellery, the gemstone and pearl trade, as well as in the technical branch.

By postponing the show to January 2021, we have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the presentation of their new products, new trends and order taking. This postponing will also allow Baselworld to continue developing and bringing new formats and solutions as well as improvements to the new concept we propose.”

Bernd Stadlwieser, Group CEO of MCH said:

“Within the process of the last weeks, I was very impressed by the involvement and trust of all our customers, partners, stakeholders and team, to pro-actively find the very best solution in the interests of the industries. By communicating intensively all together, we were able to work on different scenarios and to jointly decide on the very best one. I would like to thank everybody for their belief in and commitment to our platform.”

Baselworld is not only the largest watch and jewellery event in the world, but is also destined to become the industry’s largest global community platform, active all year round. In the coming weeks, we will be presenting a new digital service that is essential and useful to our entire community, and which we trust will meet the needs of the brands that have become even more important in these difficult and turbulent times.”

BREAKING NEWS: Bvlgari is out of the Baselworld 2020 – TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot continues


Luxury brand Bvlgari (part of LVMH Group) informed today its withdrawal from this year Baselworld. However, the LVMH watch division brands TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot will continue as usual. 

Bvlgari’s CEO Jean-Christophe Babin commented, that they are obviously disappointed not to participate in 2020, but as told already in past, they remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld and we will take our decision by June 2019 once Baselworld 2021 concept, dates and costs will be clarified.

In the same time, LVMH Watch Division President Stéphane Bianchi confirmed that TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith remains committed to Baselworld in 2020. They believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for division’s three Maisons.

Michel Loris-Melikoff, Managing Director of Baselworld. Image: Fred Merz | Lundi13
Michel Loris-Melikoff, Managing Director of Baselworld. Image: Fred Merz | Lundi13

Baselworld’s Managing Director Michel Loris-Melikoff was disappointed with the Bvlgari’s decision, but said that they continue to work closely with the Watch Division of the LVMH Group and each of its three brands TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith.

“We work closely with Stéphane Bianchi and his team to offer the best business platform to the Group’s brands with pragmatic cost control”, Loris-Melikoff said.

The Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Beige

In just a few years, Parisian origin Bell & Ross has risen to become one of the most interesting watchmakers in the world, and its innovations have sparked excitement around the world – and the next BR V2-92 Military Beige watch model is no exception.

As a small introduction to I have to say that Bell & Ross has managed to create for itself a recognizable DNA, especially for square watches, in addition to which the collection has become recognizable features of these and much-debated BR 05 watch collection, which I have already introduced earlier.

Bell & Ross BR 05
Bell & Ross BR 05

Along with square watches, Bell & Ross has introduced a vintage watch collection that is more accessible to many consumers. The reason is clear, as the wristwatches in this collection are familiar and safe round, yet with a distinctive, military-like design and feel that sets them apart from their competitors.

Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Beige Automatic

The BR V2-92 Military Beige is part of the aforementioned vintage collection, exemplarily representing the so-called field watch segment, whose main characteristics for its wearer are carefree and unobtrusive. In other words, you do not need to be particularly careful about the use of your watch under any circumstances.

The hour and minute hands have a strong SuperLuminova coating, so you can read the time in the dark.
The hour and minute hands have a strong SuperLuminova coating, so you can read the time in the dark.

On a practical level, this means that the stainless steel watch case is mostly finished with satin polishing technique where small marks of use are not easily visible. In addition, the anodized black aluminium insert is lightweight, impact resistant and hard to scratch. The bezel, which rotates in both directions, is extremely responsive, so it doesn’t accidentally move in one direction or the other.

Combining this with an anti-reflective coated sapphire glass on the inside (the coating on the outside is prone to scratches) and a screw-locking crown with 100m water resistance, we have a watch made for the genuine Bell & Ross spirit.

The Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Beige The Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Beige

The usability is complemented by the handle feel of the crown, the elastic strap by Erika’s Original, and a very beautifully executed beige dial with a matte finish that makes the watch clearly legible. You will quickly learn to appreciate this feature, because when it comes to the field watch, the legibility of the watch face is high in the criteria.

The same unobtrusive style continues in terms of technical implementation, with Bell & Ross relying heavily on the existing Sellita SW300-1, which, after its own finishing, bears the designation BR-CAL.302. This same movement is also used in another Baselworld novelty, the BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte.

A distinctive watch for work and leisure

In style perspective, the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Beige is a grateful wristwatch because it works in a variety of styles. Beige watch face and domed sapphire glass give the watch the appropriate vintage look that opens the door to the most formal dress by changing the bracelet.

My recommendation is the manufacturer’s own steel bracelet, which is extremely comfortable on the wrist and makes the BR V2-92 Military Beige dressy watch enough. Equally high quality leather strap are the perfect choice for business and business casual wear.

Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Military Beige Chronograph
Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Military Beige Chronograph

If I was looking for just one wristwatch that I could go everywhere, the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Beige is a viable option. Especially when the price is well in terms of quality. If you’re looking for a slightly more sporty option, I’d check out the BR V2-94 Military Beige Chronograph from the same collection.

In a Nutshell

  • Manufacturer: Bell & Ross
  • Model: BR V2-92 Military Beige
  • Reference: BRV292-BEI-ST/SF
  • Movement: BR-CAL.321 (Sellita SW-300) Automatic
  • RPM: 28,800
  • Power Reserve: 42 hours
  • Watch case: stainless steel
  • Diameter without crown: 41 mm
  • Thickness: 11,8 mm
  • Glass: sapphire (anti-reflective inside)
  • Water resistance: 100 m (10 bar)
  • Lug width: 22 mm
  • Strap: elastic strap or stainless steel bracelet
  • Price: 2,800 € (elastic strap), 3,100 € (steel bracelet)

The Raymond Weil’s “Experience the Art of Watchmaking” course will be held in April at Finnish School of Watchmaking

A world-unique Experience the Art of Watchmaking course, where participants learn the function and structure of wristwatches by assembling their own Raymond Weil watch, led by Watch Service Finland watchmakers Antti Kuitto and Jouni Pöllänen, will be held for the third time on April 25th at Finnish School of Watchmaking facilities, located in Espoo.

The idea behind the “Experience of the Art of Watchmaking” course is to design the unique Raymond Weil wristwatch within the given options (dial, hands and bracelet) you have chosen from a variety of options to fit in the watch model.

It’s an experience with the capital letter E, which is definitely worth the experience, as “Experience the Art of Watchmaking” is probably the only watch course where you get the full factory warranty for your “amateur” work. Plus, you get a so called keeper watch on your wrist that you are proud of.

The price of the course is EUR 1,350 – 2,300, depending on the chosen watch model and bracelet. The course is organized by Raymond Weil’s official service partner Watch Service Finland.